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Cheryl Tefft – Continuing Copperplate– October 4
Copperplate offers so many opportunities for beautiful variations on the style, and in this class we will explore a number of them.
If you have already learned the basics of traditional copperplate, now you have a chance to dress it up! Here we will develop this classic script style further and learn some of the many variations of it. You will also learn how to analyze any script variation you see so that you understand how it was created and what makes it unique, which is the first step to being able to mimic it yourself.
NOTE: This class concentrates on the more formal/traditional variations of copperplate. For the more playful/contemporary variations, see this instructor's Modern Calligraphy class.
PREREQUISITE: Beginning Copperplate, from this instructor, or any other class in traditional copperplate (or the equivalent in independent studies).
WHEN: Mondays, October 4 through November 29, 2021, 6:30-8:30 pm Central Time (no class Nov. 22)
This is a live small-group class with individual feedback, with recordings available afterward for all students enrolled.
- Suitable INK(s) of your choice (NOTE: Check your labels—acrylic or waterproof inks NOT recommended for this class unless you are pretty experienced!); suggested options include (you don’t need all of these ink options):
- 1) Winsor Newton gouache (WNG1, WNG2, or WNG3) Get at least one color you really like which shows up on white paper; AND/OR
- 2) Walnut ink (crystals recommended over bottled form): S449 (if you only get one optional writing fluid, get this one); AND/OR
- 3) Bister inks (I157 or I157-S4 or I157-S or K132): similar to walnut ink, but more colors AND/OR
- 4) Stick ink (with ink stone): my top two recommendations would probably beIS08 [Eiraku Ink Stick] or IS29 [Chinese Ink Stick – Dense Black], then IS06 [Skakyozumi Ink Stick 02409] or IS11 [Seiryutai Ink Stick 30213]) (NOTE: If you get stick ink, you MUST also obtain an ink stone! (IS19)), AND/OR
- 5) Pelikan 4001 ink, your choice of colors (I04)
- Gum arabic; get the liquid kind (I84)
- 4 (or more) small brushes for mixing and loading ink (BR43)
- Dinky dip set (S934) (S852)
- Ruler, at least 12” long (S270) (S271)
- 2 Small plastic dropper bottles (S897)—get two of these
- Distilled water
- Protractor (S632)
- Jumbo Dinky Dips (S853), at least two 4-jar sets (8 jars total, with bases; 4-square sets suggested); you may also want extra jars for holding additional inks ( S856)
- Clear tape (such as Scotch tape) (S1046), for protecting labels
- Pencil (PL21)
- Eraser (E06)
- Watercolor paper for projects, one or two large sheets recommended (pads or smaller sheets of it are okay for smaller projects)--white or off-white, something very smooth (but not slick) and non-bleeding, such as Arches Hot Press, any weight (PS42 or PS47), or Stonehenge Hot Press (PS110), or whatever “good” paper you like; be sure to get Hot Press rather than Cold Press if the paper comes in both varieties(PA42 PA110),
- Envelopes (PA79)
- Dedicated cover sheet: I like using a piece of card stock in a distinctive light color
- Toothbrush for cleaning nibs
- Painter's tape or artist’s tape (S412 or S931) (½” width suggested, though ¾” is okay too)
- Pigma Micron fine-point marker (black ink), size 005 or 01 (M17) , or other suitable waterproof pen for labels
- A variety of pointed nibs of your choice; if you don’t already have a selection of favorites, I suggest that you get at least 2 of each of the following types of nibs:
- Brause EF66 (N70)
- Hiro 40, a.k.a. the “Blue Pumpkin” nib (N81)
- Hunt 101 (N77)
- Nikko G (N113)
- Zebra Comic G (N118)
- Leonardt EF Principal (N120)
- Oblique penholder, (H133). (H129) (H97) have adjusted for NIKKO), the Turned Wood Oblique holder (H114) (NOTE: lefties may prefer a straight holder or left-oblique holder instead)
- Blank Rhodia pad(P53)
- Paper towels (S817)
- Optional: 3-ring binder with page protectors, mostly for standard 8 ½ x 11” handouts
- Optional: Samples of a variety of smooth “good” papers, mostly white/off-white, for testing (PA101)
- Optional: Pen rest (S1123)
- Optional: Rubber jar opener, a flat, flexible piece of rubber used for persuading stuck equipment to un-stick without damage; available with kitchen supplies
- Optional: Layout paper (P09-50), perhaps 10 sheets, for help with project layouts and learning new styles
- Optional: Nib containers (such as S1074 or S231), enough to have separate compartments for each variety/size of nibs you use (I sometimes use 7-day pill containers), plus small labels for the compartments; I recommend using containers that are visually different (in color or shape) for broad-edge nibs vs. pointed nibs, if you have both—make sure the compartments are big enough to hold the nibs!
- Optional: Thin lint-free rags (old cotton t-shirts work well)—some people prefer these to paper towels for using as pen wipes
- Optional: Coliro watercolors (S1000); (everyone loves these!). These can be used for lettering OR painting in metallic colors. The Arabic Gold color is many calligraphers’ preferred gold for writing or painting. I also recommend that if you aren’t buying a pre-selected set of Coliro colors which already comes with a storage box, get one of those to hold the paint pans you have selected (S999 or S1016).
- Optional: Black watercolor paper, smooth and non-bleeding, such as Strathmore ArtAgain (P58), or John Neal Deluxe Black Paper (it comes lined [P87] or unlined [P81])—for experimentation with metallic inks
- Optional: Adjustable (slant) drawing board (S690):
- Optional: Light pad (such as S1013)
- Optional but highly recommended: The Speedball Textbook (B4346)
- Optional Foundations of Calligraphy, by Sheila Waters (B2769)
- Optional,but highly recommended: The Zanerian Manual of Alphabets and Engrossing (B145)
- Optional, but highly recommended for certain oblique holders: small needle-nose pliers (S586 or S507) and tiny flat-head screwdriver (sized for eyeglasses, about 1/8” wide)—for adjusting oblique holder